A Historic Homecoming

Karl Lagerfeld is best known for his decades at Chanel and his early days assisting Pierre Balmain, yet the German-born designer bound his creative soul to Fendi for more than half a century. This July, all eyes turned to Rome during Haute Couture Week, as the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea (GNAMC) became the runway for Maria Grazia Chiuri’s first couture collection for Fendi.

Now those same halls host a monumental exhibition: After – Steps Through Work. Fendi / Karl Lagerfeld 1985, on view from 10 July to 25 October 2026.

The Greatest Fashion Partnership

What’s on display retraces the longest creative partnership in fashion history, between Karl Lagerfeld and the Fendi family. Hired in 1965 by the five Fendi sisters to reinvent the family’s traditional fur and leather house, Lagerfeld revolutionised the very idea of luxury outerwear, a collaboration that lasted until his death in 2019.

This is not a typical parade of red-carpet gowns. Instead, it faithfully rebuilds the pioneering 1985 show, originally curated by Ida Panicelli with an installation conceived by Lagerfeld himself, one of the first times fashion entered an Italian museum. It subverts expectations of the “finished product,” offering an intimate look at how Lagerfeld actually worked: how his raw sketches and the iconic double-F motif stepped off the page and came to life in the hands of master artisans.

Inside the Creative Process

Drawing on the Fendi and GNAMC archives, the exhibition brings together around 180 original drawings, 22 paper patterns, 50 sample boards, preparatory canvases and 25 furs, tracing every stage from idea to finished garment. The sketches reveal how Lagerfeld’s hand evolved over time, from soft, naturalistic female forms to bold, expressive marker lines. Look closely at the margins and you’ll find handwritten notes, references and even French words transcribed into Italian, a quiet reminder of the bilingual, real-time dialogue with a Roman atelier.

The show guides visitors through the architecture of couture, from paper patterns and canvas prototypes (toiles) to archival footage of Fendi’s deep Roman roots, including Jacques de Bascher’s 1977 film Histoire d’Eau. At its centre, a cluster of coats suspended in mid-air recreates Lagerfeld’s 1985 “Theatre” installation, once famously called the “dance of the furs.” The exhibition closes with a selection of the vast 1985 press coverage, a rare chance to trace how fashion found its place inside the museum.

For anyone drawn to the enduring legacy of Lagerfeld’s genius inside one of Italy’s most storied fashion houses, this is a must-see. Set on Viale delle Belle Arti, a short walk from the Borghese Gallery, it’s one of several major shows in the city this summer. Planning your visit between now and October? See our guide to Rome in August for more to pair with it.

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The sweltering heat isn’t the only thing rising in Rome this summer. As of July 2026, the standard Pantheon entry ticket has officially gone up from €5.00 to €7.00. It’s not going to break the bank: an extra €2.00 to preserve 2,000 years of history is a small price to pay to stand inside the ancient world’s greatest architectural marvel. Even with the price hike, the Pantheon remains the cheapest major monument to visit in the entire city.

How Much Does It Cost to Visit the Pantheon in 2026?

The standard Pantheon ticket price is now €7.00. Reduced tickets and free entry categories (under 18s, Rome residents, worshippers attending mass) remain in place. For full visitor information, opening hours and history, read our complete guide to visiting the Pantheon.

When Is the Pantheon Free to Visit?

If you happen to be strolling past the coffee-scented streets of Piazza della Rotonda on a Sunday, you may be in luck: like the Colosseum and the Roman Forum, the Pantheon is completely free on the first Sunday of every month. Keep in mind you’ll have to queue for a physical ticket, as online booking isn’t available on free days.

On any other day, our advice is to book your Pantheon tickets online and in advance, when the piazza gets crowded, nobody wants to melt in line under the midday sun.

Is the Pantheon Worth Visiting?

Absolutely. The dome of the Pantheon is still the world’s largest unreinforced concrete dome, rebuilt by Emperor Hadrian nearly two millennia ago. Born as a pagan temple dedicated to all the Roman gods, in 609 AD it was gifted to the Pope and consecrated as a Christian church, Santa Maria ad Martyres. The hole at the top of the dome, the famous oculus, is the building’s only source of light. And for those wondering what happens when the heavens pour: yes, it rains inside! Rain, hail, storms or religious upheaval, the most fascinating thing about the Pantheon is its survival story.

Want to Get More Out of Your Visit?

A guided visit brings the Pantheon’s 2,000 years of history to life. Here are two experiences we recommend:

Pantheon Private Tour

Rome City Center Walking Tour with Pantheon Guided Visit

So yes, ticket prices have risen, but don’t fret. Book your ticket online, walk through those 2,000-year-old bronze doors, and look up.

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English-Speaking Yoga in the Centre of Rome

Stepping away from the busy streets of Centro Storico and into Zem Yoga Studio Roma feels instantly grounding. You are transported into a quiet, candle-lit hideaway filled with a calming aroma that hangs softly in the air. While the atmosphere invites an immediate sigh of relief, the true heartbeat of Zem is its thriving sense of community. Founded in 2015, Zem has become the ultimate sanctuary for expats, local Italians and travelers who come together not just to practice, but to connect. 

Built on Real Connection 

For owner Amity Neumeister, the path to Zem began during her university days in Siena when she fell in love with Rome. When the opportunity arose a decade ago, she poured her energy into creating a space centered around community, where Zem has evolved into a close-knit yoga family. 

Today, alongside seven other dedicated instructors and several volunteer karma yogis, Amity and her team create a holistic experience that begins the second you cross the threshold. Amity’s vision clearly resonates with the team, who deeply believe in the ‘Zem way’ of fostering a sense of belonging that extends beyond just the mat.

That care flourishes in the studio room. Classes are kept small and personal, usually averaging between 5 to 20 students. Before my first session began, Amity moved through the room, chatting with new students and catching up with regulars by name, asking how their bodies were feeling today. 

The students here span from 20 to 80 years old, bringing together people from completely different walks of life. The bonds formed run deep, Amity sharing with a smile that the studio has sparked close friendships, tight social groups and even a few marriages over the years. 

An International Vibe with a Local Pulse 

A defining feature of Zem is that every single class is taught entirely in English. This is a massive comfort for expats and tourists navigating a foreign city. During our visit, the very first student came through the door beaming, exclaiming how amazing it is that they do this in English. 

Yet, Zem isn’t just an expat bubble. A huge portion of the studio’s daily students are local Italians. For them, Zem offers a vibrant, international experience right in their own backyard, making it a cultural crossroads where everyone is smiling, open and inclusive. 

On The Mat 

Whether you are a seasoned yogi or a total beginner, there is zero intimidation here. As someone who hadn’t stepped onto a yoga mat in several years, I walked into the room feeling a little apprehensive, but the environment instantly melted away any first-time jitters. At the beginning, Amity asked everyone to introduce themselves and talk to someone they didn’t know. It was a beautiful touch that immediately made me feel comfortable and entirely part of the space. 

I took Amity’s Heated Vinyasa class and the room was kept perfectly warm, comfortably loosening up tight muscles without ever feeling stuffy or overwhelming. For anyone worried about keeping up, Amity seamlessly builds options into every sequence, offering adjustments to make poses more accessible or more challenging depending on how your body feels. The studio provides plenty of props; we used yoga blocks and myofascial release balls to roll out deep tension, making the entire session feel fully customizable to my own pace. 

Each of the Zem instructors brings their own unique background so the practice never feels rigid, some leaning into meditation and others more into dynamic movement. Zem Yoga Studio Roma stands out because it is a place where you come for the physical practice, but stay for the calm you find in your mind and the connection you make to the people. If you’re looking to find your footing in the middle of Rome’s beautiful chaos, Zem is ready to welcome you in. 

Plan Your Visit: The Essentials

Classes

Zem specializes in Vinyasa flow, with dynamic options ranging from their signature Heated Vinyasa to high-energy Rocket Vinyasa, Ashtanga Vinyasa and alongside restorative Yin and Myofascial Release sessions. 

Pricing Options

For Residents/Locals: The Intro Pass is highly recommended. It gives you 7 consecutive days of unlimited access to for just €29, allowing you to sample different teaching styles and find your perfect rhythm. 

For Visitors/Drop-ins: A single drop-in class is €23 (€25 with a mat). Traveling yogis can also opt for a Tourist Pass (€108 for 5 classes), which conveniently bundles mat and towel rentals.

Amenities

The studio is fully equipped to make your transition from the mat back to the city seamless, offering clean changing rooms, showers and mat/towel hire. 

To view their full pricing options and weekly schedule, head over to the Zem Yoga Studio Roma Website.

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See Rome from the Clouds

Most travellers miss the chance to see Rome from a different perspective, where you can truly appreciate the scale of the Eternal City. This walking itinerary offers the ultimate scenic ascent through Rome.

It begins in the tangerine hued alleys of Trastevere, then guides you up the quiet slopes of Gianicolo Hill. As you climb, you will have a chance to point out many historical monuments from above, including the dome of the Pantheon and St. Peters Basilica to the walls of the Colosseum. If you are looking to find a peaceful path away from the crowds, this route leads you straight to one of Rome’s most spectacular, yet frequently missed, lookouts.

From this lookout, Rome becomes splayed before you like an open-air museum. You can spot the Pantheon’s dome, the angel on top of Castel Sant’Angelo and the oval magnificence of the Colosseum. If you are there at midday, you’ll hear the traditional fire of a cannon that has taken place daily since 1847. Up here, where the hustle and hum of the city sit below, you truly feel like you are standing in the clouds above the Eternal City.

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