The eleventh edition of Rome’s contemporary art week kicks off on October 19th
The Eternal City is hosting the eleventh edition of “RAW – Rome Art Week”, an initiative dedicated entirely to contemporary art, with over 450 events, 676 artists and 71 curators, as well as many exhibitions and open studios.
Rome Art Week is an annual event spread across the city. Its aim is to give art lovers, collectors and scholars an overview of the contemporary art scene in the capital, through hundreds of events in exhibition spaces, artists’ open studios and free cultural projects created specifically for the week, while building a network between venues, artists and curators.
The week opens on Monday 19 October, from 6 pm to 9 pm, at Auditorium Albergotti (Via Francesco Albergotti) with 85 secondi, a collective performance project curated by Roberta Melasecca.
RAW – Rome Art Week also organises guided tours throughout the week, divided by area or theme. They take place on foot, in small groups, with visits to exhibition spaces and artists’ studios. Don’t miss the walks through the neighbourhoods of Rome, exploring galleries, associations and museums. The tours are free and can be booked on the official website.
A varied and well-established programme, RAW aims to place Rome at the centre of today’s art scene, alongside other major European capitals. Events take place both in the city centre and in the outer neighbourhoods, involving as many local realities as possible. Galleries, foundations, museums, cultural institutions and associations, academies, Italian and foreign cultural institutes and independent spaces open their doors with exhibitions, talks, meetings, performances and special openings.
Artists open their studios to welcome visitors, collectors and professionals into their workspaces and offer new insight into their work. Curators present their research through exhibitions and cultural events in spaces across the city. Artists’ collectives, encouraged by the organisers, help new contemporary art movements emerge.
To guide the public through the many proposals, critics, curators, intellectuals and artists active in Rome offer their own selection of participants and events.
Most events are free, though some require booking and a few are by invitation only. For the full calendar, visit romeartweek.com/en/events.
Roma Jazz Festival comes back for its 50th edition.
From November 1 to 24, the Roma Jazz Festival returns for its 50th edition, across Auditorium Parco della Musica “Ennio Morricone,” Casa del Jazz, and Alcazar, bringing together some of the world’s most exciting artists, from jazz legends to fearless new innovators. Dedicated to Miles Davis for the centenary from his birth, the festival proves once again how jazz is a language in continuous evolution.
As artistic director Mario Ciampà puts it: “the history of the festival is, in part, the history of jazz itself”
Roma Jazz Festival is one of the most important European festivals that, for half a century, has brought not only the historic great names of the international scene to Rome but also, with tireless curiosity and sensitivity, those representatives of the new generations who continue to innovate a genre of music that is by its nature boundless.
The festival opens with Paolo Fresu who inaugurates the 50th edition with Kind of Lives, the latest recording project from the play Kind of Miles, written and interpreted by the artist himself. On stage, on Fresu’s side, he will be accompanied by two ensembles, one paying homage to Davis and the other one representing the revolutionary musical evolution.
Yellowjackets will have their comeback on November 4, but this time, they will be hosting Kurt Elling, defined by the Guardian as “a sort of Frank Sinatra with superpowers”. An unmissable meeting between the best jazz singer in the world and one of the most iconic bands will take place at The Roma jazz festival for its 50th anniversary.
A mix of energies
On the 5th of November, more iconic artists will take over the stage: Steve Colemanand hisFive elements are ready to make their audience dance. The American saxophonist, known for mixing jazz with hip-hop, creates a funky rhythm that, together with the Five elements, will be an explosion of energy and groove.
On 6 November, Cuban pianist Gonzalo Rubalcaba and Rio de Janeiro mandolin virtuoso Hamilton de Holanda share the stage at the festival for the first time with Collab, their joint project. The two masters of Latin jazz bring intricate melodies, rhythmic complexity and fiery improvised exchanges. Another leading name on the Italian scene, Chiara Civello (23 November) presents her upcoming album, born from her collaboration with producer Clap! Clap!.
Outside Rome, two concerts mark John Coltrane’s centenary with A Love Supreme: the Rieti Jazz Orchestra at the Chiesa di San Domenico in Rieti (15 November) and the Priverno Jazz Orchestra at the Abbazia di Fossanova (22 November).
The 50th edition closes on 24 November with 100 Miles for Miles Davis.
On the 6th of November, the initiative will put together the Cuban pianist Gonzalo Rubalcaba with the Brazilian mandolinist Hamilton de Holanda. The two masters of latin jazz will be brought together to create an intense musical dialogue characterized by intricate melodies and a complex rhythm.
Steve Coleman
Italian sounds
During the festival, the Italian presence will also be tangible through many different artists. From two trios of Domenico Rizzuto (Nov 8) and Eleonora Strino (Nov 13),to Rosa Brunello with her latest album We Are Surging Waters and Enzo Favata (Nov 16) with his Atlantico, an iconic project blending jazz, South American sounds and poetry.
Another protagonist of the itialian scenery is Chiara Civello (Nov 23) who will present her new project with Clap! Clap!. The collaboration will be a fusion of jazz and electronic music, art-pop and clubbing, anticipated by the single Me and the Trees.
Homages to the Bigs of Jazz
On November 17, the festival pays tribute to Miles Davis with New Sketchesof Spain, a performance combining jazz and flamenco while revisiting Davis’s celebrated 1960 album Sketches of Spain. The project brings together Franco-Swiss trumpeter Erik Truffaz and flamenco saxophonist and singer Antonio Lizana. The following day, American drummer Gregory Hutchinson takes the stage to revisit Davis’s repertoire, drawing inspiration from the legendary drummers who accompanied the trumpeter throughout his career.
On November 19th, the spotlight turns to another jazz legend, Sonny Rollins, through the tribute by the CDO–Casa del jazz Orchestra, conducted by Mario Corvini and featuring Javer Gìrotto. Rollins, who passed away at the age of 95, remains a memorable presence in the festival’s history following his celebrated 2009 performance in Rome.
Outside of Rome, two meetings will pay homage to the centenary of John Coltrane at Abbazia di Fossanova and of the Rieti Jazz Orchestra at Chiesa di San Domenico in Rieti.
A Grand Finale
The 50th edition of the Roma Jazz festival will conclude on November 24 with 100 Miles for Miles Davis, a major tribute to the legendary musician who transformed the history of jazz. The project is led by keyboardist, producer and composer Jason Miles, whose career includes collaborations with artists such as Aretha Franklin, Whitney Houston, Michael Jackson, Chaka Khan and Diana Ross. The closing performance promises to celebrate the enduring influence of one of the most innovative figures in twentieth-century music.
50 years of Jazz
Produced by IMF Foundation in collaboration with Fondazione Musica per Roma, and supported by Regione Lazio and the Ministry of Culture, the Roma Jazz Festival continues to celebrate the richness and versatility of jazz music. Its 50th edition offers audiences the opportunity to discover different sounds, explore new musical perspectives and experience the genre’s enduring ability to evolve while remaining deeply connected to its roots.
1 November Paolo Fresu, Kind of Lives Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Sinopoli, 18:00
4 November Kurt Elling & Yellowjackets, Celebrate Weather Report Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Petrassi, 20:00
5 November Steve Coleman and Five Elements Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Petrassi, 20:00
6 November Hamilton de Holanda & Gonzalo Rubalcaba, Collab Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Petrassi, 20:00
7 November EIC Eden Inverted Collective by Zoe Pia, Atlantidei Casa del Jazz, 19:30
8 November Domenico Rizzuto Trio, Disastri Quotidiani Casa del Jazz, 18:00
13 November Eleonora Strino Trio Casa del Jazz, 19:30
14 November Nexus Quartet, Appunti di Viaggio Casa del Jazz, 19:30
15 November Rieti Jazz Orchestra, Focus Coltrane Chiesa di San Domenico, Rieti, 18:00
16 November Enzo Favata, Atlantico Reunion Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Petrassi, 20:00
17 November Erik Truffaz & Antonio Lizana, New Sketches of Spain Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Petrassi, 20:00
18 November Gregory Hutchinson, Kind of Now: The Pulse of Miles Davis Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Petrassi, 20:00
19 November CDJO Casa del Jazz Orchestra conducted by Mario Corvini, with Javier Girotto, Tenor Madness Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Petrassi, 20:00
20 November Omasta Alcazar, 21:00
21 November Jeremy Pelt Quintet Auditorium Parco della Musica, Teatro Studio Borgna, 20:00
22 November Fiabe Jazz, Musicanti di Brema Swing Band Auditorium Parco della Musica, Teatro Studio Borgna, 11:00
Rosa Brunello, We Are Surging Waters Auditorium Parco della Musica, Teatro Studio Borgna, 18:00
Priverno Jazz Orchestra, Focus Coltrane Abbazia di Fossanova, Priverno (LT), 18:00
23 November Chiara Civello & Clap! Clap!, CCCC Auditorium Parco della Musica, Teatro Studio Borgna, 20:00
24 November Jason Miles, 100 Miles for Miles Davis Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Petrassi, 20:00
In November, Rome is all about the rich program of the Rome Jazz Festival, but not only that. There’s also plenty of anticipation for Italian and international artists such as Francesco De Gregori, Malika Ayane, Brunori Sas and Francesca Michielin. Check out the list of the best concerts in Rome in November 2026 below.
The first major Pontormo retrospective ever held outside Florence
An innovator and one of the most original painters of the 16th century, Jacopo Carucci, known as Pontormo, is the subject of a major exhibition at the Scuderie del Quirinale in Rome, open until 7 February 2027. It is the first large monographic show on the artist ever held outside Florence, and the first time since 1956 that so many of his masterpieces have been brought together in one place.
The exhibition is curated by Cristina Acidini, with a scientific committee of Elena Capretti, Philippe Costamagna, Bruce Edelstein and Carlo Falciani, and organised by Ales-Scuderie del Quirinale in partnership with the Uffizi Galleries.
What to see at the Pontormo exhibition
The show follows Pontormo’s life in chronological order, from his early work in republican Florence to the great commissions for the Medici and the Church, with sections devoted to his drawings, his portraits and his writings. Across 10 sections it brings together over 130 works, 84 of them by Pontormo: paintings, detached frescoes and a large selection of drawings.
Loans come from the Uffizi, the Galleria Borghese, the Louvre, the National Gallery and the British Museum in London, the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the National Gallery of Art in Washington and the Getty Museum in Los Angeles, alongside churches across Tuscany. Highlights include the Supper at Emmaus, often seen as a forerunner of Caravaggio, and two paintings based on cartoons by Michelangelo, the Noli me tangere, restored for the occasion, and Venus and Cupid.
Don’t miss the Libro mio, the diary Pontormo kept between 1554 and 1556, filled with notes and small sketches. For centuries it was read as proof of an eccentric, tormented personality; the exhibition catalogue offers a more balanced reading.
Pontormo (Jacopo da Pontormo), Pala Capponi: Pietà (Trasporto di Cristo), 1525-1528 circa, olio su tavola, 313 × 192 cm Firenze, chiesa di Santa Felicita, cappella Capponi Per gentile concessione dell’Arcidiocesi di Firenze
The Capponi Altarpiece
One of the most striking loans is the Capponi Altarpiece (1525-1528), the Pietà also known as the Deposition, which has left its chapel in Santa Felicita in Florence together with the four roundels of the Evangelists by Pontormo and Bronzino. The display recalls the architecture of the chapel itself. Figures spiral upwards around the body of Christ in a swirl of pink and pale blue, colours so bright that they soften the drama of a scene that, on the surface, is about death.
Pontormo’s portraits
Pontormo worked for the Medici for most of his life, and the exhibition includes a large group of portraits painted for the family and for other leading figures of the time. Balanced between formal rigour and psychological depth, they feel strikingly modern: these are faces from five centuries ago that still hold your gaze.
The best example is the Halberdier, whose identity is still debated. Behind his confident, almost defiant military pose there is a hint of melancholy, as if the soldier’s composure had been broken for a moment by a thought or a memory. The exhibition also shows Bronzino’s Lady in Red, painted by Pontormo’s most gifted pupil: an elegant woman in shimmering velvet with a small dog in her arms, whose direct gaze makes her both noble and approachable.
Pontormo, Portrait of a Halberdier, c. 1529-1530, oil on canvas, 95.3 × 73 cm, Los Angeles, The J. Paul Getty Museum
Pontormo treated saints with the same freedom. His Saint Michael the Archangel is no warrior leading the heavenly armies, but a fair-haired young man in a graceful, almost casual pose, resting one leg on the shoulders of the cherub at his feet.
The Visitation and Bill Viola’s The Greeting
The theme of the Visitation opens and closes the exhibition. The first rooms feature Pontormo’s early fresco of the meeting between Mary and Elizabeth (1514-1516), detached from the Chiostrino dei Voti in Florence’s Santissima Annunziata: the work that made his name in the city. The last room is reserved for the Visitation from Carmignano (1528-1532), his most famous painting, on loan from the church of San Michele Arcangelo near Prato. Four women in vivid robes meet in an almost abstract space, in a silent embrace that is one of the most memorable images of the Italian Renaissance.
Pontormo, Visitation, 1528-1532, oil on panel, 202 × 156 cm, Carmignano (Prato), San Michele Arcangelo. Courtesy of the Diocese of Pistoia. Photo: Antonio Quattrone
The Visitation also inspired Bill Viola, whose slow-motion video installation The Greeting premiered at the 1995 Venice Biennale. To mark the exhibition, it is on show at Santa Maria Antiqua in the Roman Forum, inside the Colosseum Archaeological Park, from 11 October 2026 to 6 February 2027. Seeing both works makes for a rewarding double visit.
Pontormo’s drawings
Drawing was where Pontormo’s talent showed most clearly, and the exhibition gives it plenty of space. Many of his models came straight from the street: workshop boys sketched from life in natural, ever-changing poses. Five hundred years on, their gestures and expressions still look surprisingly familiar.
Pontormo, Nude Raising His Arm (recto), c. 1525
“The exhibition is a major organisational challenge, a bold curatorial gamble and proof of how institutional synergies can achieve extraordinarily ambitious results. But it is also, and above all, a unique opportunity for the public to come face to face with one of the most seductive and beloved artists of the entire Renaissance.”
Matteo Lafranconi, Director of the Scuderie del Quirinale
Visiting the Pontormo exhibition in Rome
The Scuderie del Quirinale are at Via XXIV Maggio 16, a short walk from the Trevi Fountain. The exhibition is open daily from 10am to 8pm, with last entry at 7pm. Allow at least an hour and a half, and book online to avoid queues, especially at weekends.
A 1920s-Style Cocktail Bar with Live Music in Monti
Blackmarket Hall, with its romantic lighting, secret rooms, and uncanny resemblance to a roaring-twenties speakeasy, welcomes mixology enthusiasts, foodies, and music lovers alike. From its unassuming exterior, you’d never guess the treasure trove of creativity, cocktails, and culture that lies within. But step through its doors, and you’ll find a bohemian haven.
Held in by the thick velvet curtains, dark wood surfaces, and red walls, Blackmarket Hall is an atmospheric experience where you can let your hair down and enjoy quality refreshments. The creators at Blackmarket have truly achieved how to make a space feel inviting and intimate, from the decor to the menu, and although the hall is just a short walk from the Colosseum, walking in will feel like you’ve stepped into a secret.
With two downstairs garden areas, two sitting rooms, two bars, and outdoor heaters for the winter, Blackmarket Hall is incredibly spacious. The venue serves a wide range of luxuriously curated cocktails alongside international dishes.
They host an extensive aperitivo from 6:00–9:00 PM featuring tastings and gourmet pairings, plus weekly specials, and their kitchen is open every night until midnight. Choose from four tasting boards (cured meats and cheeses, vegetarian, meat or fish), each served with a drink, for €14 to €18.
Their wine list is equally impressive, with a wide selection of Italian wines, including natural wines, as well as Champagne.
The cocktail menu blends inventive signatures with timeless classics, often built on locally sourced ingredients. Highlights include the Palom-ini, a citrusy riff on the Bellini, and the Salty Cardinal, a playful take on the Cardinale (a Negroni-style mix of gin, Campari, and dry vermouth).
The Hall doesn’t skimp on food, either. There’s a full menu, from hearty burgers and eclectic small plates to share to pasta and meat and fish mains, with dedicated plant-based sections for vegetarians and vegans. Recent additions include the Monticiane, the kitchen’s homemade take on montanarine (small fried pizzas), named after the neighborhood, a carbonara burger, a tomahawk steak and a long list of tapas.
LiveMusic plays a central role at Blackmarket Hall. These days the line-up leans toward R&B, soul, pop and black music, with the occasional gypsy jazz and swing night that suits the 1920s setting. Shows start at 9:30 PM, and you’ll find live music at BMH two to three nights a week, with events posted on their Instagram. Whether you’re there to sip a cocktail or soak in the performances, the ambiance alone is worth the visit.
A few tips from the Roman insiders: get there early as seating fills up quickly (though they do accept reservations), explore the iconic neighborhood of Monti with a pre- or post-bar stroll, and chat with the welcoming bartenders if you’re not sure what to order. The staff’s passion and expertise will guide you to your perfect drink.
Blackmarket Hall is more than just a bar, it’s an experience that captures the essence of Rome’s artistic and eclectic spirit. Whether you’re a cocktail enthusiast, a music lover, or simply someone looking for a unique night out, this hidden gem promises an evening you won’t soon forget. Once you’ve discovered its charm, you’ll understand why it’s one of Rome’s best-kept secrets.
Beyond catastrophe lies wonder. The Vatican Apostolic Library invites visitors to a five-year long thematic exhibition cycle, beginning with its first installment: AQVA.
For the first time in history, the Vatican Apostolic Library opens its doors to the public with a brand new, five-year long project: Catastrophe and Wonder. A one of a kind exhibition, the Vatican’s centuries old heritage is presented alongside contemporary art that brings together science and the imagination.
In partnership with Fondazione Roma, supported by Intesa Sanpaolo, Catastrophe and Wonder aims to explore the natural threats to the written world. Elements such as fire, water, light, insects and mankind are highlighted, with visitors invited to reflect on how these dangers can, at the same time, be the very things that inspire and heal. If we allow ourselves to look beyond fear, what will we discover? Catastrophe, or wonder?
The first chapter of this showcase, AQVA, runs from September 25th until May 14th, 2027. Visitors will get to explore the duality of water as both a life-giving force, and one of destruction. The hour-long audio guided tour takes you through threats that have endangered the library’s collection over the centuries, transforming disaster into discovery.
Curated by Don Giacomo Cardinali, Simona De Crescenzo, Francesca Giannetto, and Delio Proverbio, AQVA is more than an exhibition; it is the opening chapter of a major cultural initiative.
The experience begins before you even enter the building. A towering 70-meter wave seems to engulf the library’s 16th-century facade. Created by French artist JR, the installation, titled Diluvium, recreates the biblical flood as imagined by Gustave Doré in an 1866 wood engraving. The work is striking and immediately sets the tone for the rest of the visit.
Entering through JR’s wave, Vatican staff welcomes visitors with a brief presentation on the structure of the visit and everyone is then handed audio guides. Awaiting at the top of the staircase lies a special display of books and images bathed in a deep blue light.
The initial collection commemorates the 60 year anniversary of the Florence flood of 1966, when the waters of the Arno River claimed not only human lives but also destroyed the halls and storage areas of the National Library. The large-scale photograph and reproductions come from a photo album, preserved at the Vatican Library, to illustrate the scale of the disaster.
Leaving the blue room behind, visitors enter a space filled with manuscripts, printed books, engravings and artifacts from the Vatican’s centuries-old collections, from Apicius’s De re coquinaria to Giovanni Battista Ramusio’s travel accounts, marine bestiaries and water-themed coins.
In the center are displayed copies of Ippolito Salviani’s 470-year-old treatise Aquatilium Animalium Historiae, which contains dozens of engravings and studies of marine life. Originally published in 1557 under the Vatican Library itself, it is the symbolic heart of the exhibition.
The next half of the room features a unique combination of fonts and fish, created by American artist Bill Moran. His typography series, titled LetterFish, aims to establish a connection between the past and present. Taking a closer look at the marine creatures, visitors will discover letters, numbers and typographic symbols that make up each of the 14 original prints on display.
The third voice in the exhibition is chef Fulvio Pierangelini, who brings together water, cuisine and memory. Through six original gastronomic narratives, he explores the cultural value of food, natural resources and raw ingredients, broadening the scope of the exhibition.
The following section allows visitors to catch a glimpse of the restoration process from the official Laboratory of the Vatican Apostolic Library. While natural disasters such as flooding can cause irreversible damage to ancient manuscripts and books, water is also used as an essential tool for the preservation of parchment.
The journey concludes with Undae, JR’s second art installation featured in the reflective Barberini hall. Another black and white wave is projected onto a screen, but this time it is presented not as a threat, but as a space for contemplation. Water has stayed the same throughout the exhibition, but in the final room, we realize it is only our perspective that has changed.
Visits to AQVA are by reservation only. Regular visits with audio guides available in Italian and English are held on Saturdays, whereas private tours are only available on Fridays. Expect to spend about one hour inside, and don’t forget to take the elevator up to the 4th floor, where you can visit the Sistine Library, a space that is rarely open to the public.
When to go, how to get free tickets and what to expect at a Papal Audience or Sunday blessing in St. Peter’s Square
Planning to see Pope Leo XIV during your trip to Rome? You have two main options: the Wednesday General Audience, which requires a free ticket, and the Sunday Angelus in St. Peter’s Square, which doesn’t. Here’s when they take place, how to get tickets and what to expect on the day.
When are the Papal Audience and the Angelus?
The General Audience takes place on Wednesday mornings at 10am. Depending on the season and the weather, it’s held outdoors in St. Peter’s Square, indoors in the Paul VI Audience Hall or, occasionally, in St. Peter’s Basilica. The Pope usually opens with a ride through the crowd in the Popemobile, then gives a short catechesis, greets pilgrims in several languages and closes with the Apostolic Blessing.
There are no audiences in July or when the Pope is travelling, and the schedule can change at short notice. Check the official calendar of the Papal Household a few days before you go.
On Sundays, the Pope leads the Angelus at noon from the window of the Apostolic Palace overlooking St. Peter’s Square, with a short prayer, a reflection and a blessing. The whole thing lasts about 15 minutes. During the Easter season, the Angelus is replaced by the Regina Caeli, with the same format.
During the peak summer weeks, the ceremony shifts to the papal summer residence in Castel Gandolfo, where people gather in Piazza della Libertà following a scenic train ride up from Rome.
You don’t need a ticket for the Angelus. Just head to St. Peter’s Square, go through security and find a spot in the crowd.
The Wednesday General Audience does require a ticket, but tickets are always free. Request them through the online form of the Prefecture of the Papal Household, indicating the date and the number of people. Apply as early as you can, especially in spring and autumn.
Visitors from the United States can also request tickets through the Pontifical North American College. Once your request is confirmed by email, you collect the tickets at their office in Via dell’Umiltà 30 from 3pm on the Tuesday before the audience. Use one channel only: don’t request tickets from both.
Tickets booked through the Prefecture are collected at the Bronze Door, under the right-hand colonnade of St. Peter’s Square, from 3pm to 7pm on Tuesday or from 7am on Wednesday morning.
Didn’t book in time? The Swiss Guards at the Bronze Door sometimes hand out leftover tickets in the days before the audience, but there’s no guarantee.
If you’d rather not deal with requests and pickups, you can book a guided Papal Audience experience. The tickets themselves stay free: what you pay for is the service. A local guide handles the reservation and pickup, meets you on Via della Conciliazione and takes your small group to a good vantage point in the square, explaining the ceremony while you wait. The tour ends when the audience begins.
On the day, arrive two to three hours early if you want a seat near the barriers and a close view of the Popemobile. Security lines can be long, particularly in high season.
What to wear to the Vatican
Shoulders and knees should be covered for the General Audience and are required to enter St. Peter’s Basilica, so dress accordingly if you plan to visit afterwards. Large suitcases and oversized backpacks are not allowed past security. In summer, bring water and a hat: seating in the square has no shade.
From the streets of New York to the historic rooms of Palazzo Braschi, Keith Haring’s art has found a new home in Rome. From October 6, 2026, to April 11, 2027, the Museo di Roma at Palazzo Braschi opens its doors to Keith Haring: Art Without Borders, an exhibition dedicated to one of the most recognizable artists of New York’s turbulent 1980s.
Curated by Kaoru Yanase, Ilaria Miarelli Mariani and Claudio Zambianchi, the exhibition brings together more than 140 pieces drawn from the Nakamura Keith Haring Collection, the largest collection in the world dedicated to the artist.
Haring’s work was never meant to stay inside a museum. His art was born in the streets, the subway and the hectic landscape of New York. His simple lines, his Barking dog, his Radiant Baby, and his Dancing figures, became iconic figures that could be recognized almost instantly. At the heart of the exhibition is Haring’s deep belief that art is for everyone.
Inside Haring’s world
From the first room, visitors are immersed into Haring’s unmistakable universe. The exhibition also highlights his connection with Italy, where the artist left his mark during the 1980s.
Before his work entered any museum, Haring was drawing in the New York City subway. His famous Subway Drawings transformed empty advertising panels into temporary canvases, turning everyday journeys into unexpected encounters with art. From there, the exhibition moves through his iconic imagery, including the figures that would become instantly associated with his name.
But behind the playful characters and colorful images lies a much more serious side of Haring. Moving through the rooms, his work becomes intrinsically connected to the political and social issues of the time. LGBTQ+ rights, racism, violence, AIDS and apartheid all become subjects of his visual language. Apparently simple, his art holds messages that are not as easy to comprehend.
“Life is so fragile. It is a very fine line between life and death. I realize I am walking this line”
wrote Haring in 1986.
The words take on particular weight in the exhibition’s final section. Apocalypse and Altarpiece: The Life of Christ, created during the last years of his life, reveal a darker and more introspective dimension of the artist. Altarpiece is displayed inside the chapel at Palazzo Braschi, creating an unexpected dialogue between Haring’s contemporary visual language and the historic space surrounding it.
The exhibition ultimately returns to the idea that defined Haring’s career: art is for everyone. His drawings began on subway walls and moved into galleries, schools, hospitals and public spaces. In Rome, they now occupy the rooms of the Museum while still preserving their message.
Haring’s art was born in the streets of 1980s New York, but that does not mean that his language is not still relevant today. More than thirty years after his death, his figures still live for those who are willing to see them.
A day of shopping and family activities at Rome’s designer outlet
The Fashion Festival is back for autumn. On Sunday 11 October, Castel Romano Designer Outlet hosts a full day of discounts and special offers, at the same time as every other McArthurGlen centre in Italy. Opening hours are extended for the occasion, from 9am to 8pm, and the cafés open early at 8am.
For one day only, participating brands are offering up to 70% off the outlet price on autumn-winter clothing and accessories, with each brand discounting at least three items. Brands taking part include Nike, Michael Kors, Karl Lagerfeld, Woolrich, Adidas, Dsquared2, Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein and Sunglass Hut, alongside a range of other promotions. It’s a good chance to stock up on winter essentials before the cold sets in.
The Fashion Festival is also designed as a day out for the whole family. There’s a playground and balloons for children, a dog area for four-legged visitors, and the chance to explore nature at the WWF-affiliated Castel Romano Oasis. When you need a break, the centre’s restaurants offer everything from quick snacks to sit-down meals, with plenty of outdoor seating.
Getting there
The outlet is at Via del Ponte di Piscina Cupa 64, off the SS Pontina at the Castel Romano exit. If you’re not driving, a paid shuttle bus runs from Termini Station (Via Giolitti), with extra departures from 8:30am. A second shuttle leaves from Eur Fermi metro station (Viale America) from 9am, free for McArthurGlen Loyalty Club members.
To plan your visit, you can browse the full list of discounted items in advance on the centre’s official website.
Your golden ticket to the ultimate Roman happy hour. Introducing the one and only Spritz-themed bar in the heart of the ultra-urban Monti district
A spritz after a long day at work is always a good idea; we can all agree on that. But it becomes a really good idea when you can enjoy that drink on a terrace that also gives you a glimpse of the Colosseum.
Spritzeria Monti gives a lot away in its name alone. The rooftop is part of Condominio Monti and overlooks Via dei Serpenti, one of the main and best-known streets in the Monti district, the one that leads straight to the most iconic monument in Rome, and in all of Italy.
The bar has a modern look, with a colourful, carefully designed urban style, and naturally offers a wide choice of spritz: alongside the classic Aperol or Campari mix, there are versions made with other traditional Italian liqueurs such as Cynar, limoncello, Cedrata Tassoni and Venturo. The menu also features signature drinks with playful names like Roma Amor, Il Croccante and Blushing Bride, and the bar is well stocked to make any kind of drink, from mocktails to beer and wine.
Aperitivo
Spritzeria Monti is a good choice for a date in a central location or for drinks with friends and colleagues. Its private, intimate setting also makes it well suited to private events. For birthdays, parties and corporate aperitivi, the bar offers dedicated packages and menus designed for both small and larger groups.
So you don’t drink on an empty stomach, you can pair your spritz with a cured meat and cheese platter as part of the aperitivo deal (5pm to 7:30pm) for €18-20, or order tapas to share, chosen from classic Italian dishes. After sunset, the Sunset menu kicks in, with three courses and a drink included.
Relax like a Roman: the best hot springs, thermal pools and spas for a day trip from Rome
Romans have been soaking in thermal water for more than two thousand years. Ancient complexes such as the Baths of Caracalla were not simply places to wash: they were social spaces where Romans exercised, relaxed and met one another. The monumental ruins survive, but the tradition of soaking in mineral-rich water is very much alive around the capital.
Within roughly 30 to 90 minutes of Rome you can choose between polished thermal spas, historic establishments and simple outdoor pools fed by naturally hot springs. Some are ideal for a full wellness day; others are inexpensive or free places where the experience is closer to the landscape and local bathing culture.
This guide combines the best-known thermal baths near Rome with several worthwhile alternatives in Tuscia and on the coast. Prices and opening times can change seasonally, so always check the official website before setting out.
Thermal baths near Rome at a glance
Place
From Rome
Style
Price guide
Best for
QC Terme Roma
30 min
Luxury spa
From €54
Airport stopover, spa day
Terme di Roma
30-45 min
Thermal spa
€16-22
The closest classic terme
Terme Sabine di Cretone
45 min
Seasonal pools
€10 weekday, €13 weekend
A summer day out
Terme di Stigliano
75-90 min
Historic spa
€25-30
Quiet wellness
Ficoncella
60-75 min
Public thermal pools
€6-10
Value and sea views
Terme dei Papi
90 min
Historic thermal pool
€18 day entry
The iconic Viterbo bath
Piscine Carletti
90 min
Wild, free pools
Free
A rustic experience
Bullicame
90 min
Natural spring area
Free
History and landscape
Bagnaccio
90 min
Natural thermal park
€8 weekday
Outdoor comfort
QC Terme
Luxury spa close to Fiumicino Airport
Address: Via Portuense 2178, Fiumicino Entry fee: from €54
If you want a polished wellness experience without travelling far from Rome, QC Terme Roma is the easiest choice. Set in the countryside near Fiumicino airport, the resort combines pools, hydrotherapy areas, relaxation rooms and steam experiences in an elegant setting inspired by the Roman tradition of otium – time deliberately set aside for rest.
It works particularly well on an arrival or departure day, or when you want the comfort of a fullservice spa rather than a rustic natural spring. Allow several hours rather than treating it as a quick swim. Entry prices vary by package, day and time, so check the current booking calendar before going.
Traditional sulphurous thermal complex east of Rome
Address: Via Tiburtina Valeria, Tivoli Terme Entry fee: indoor thermal spa €45 (Mon-Fri), €50 (weekends and holidays); summer outdoor pools from around €16
The Acque Albule at Tivoli Terme are among the most accessible traditional thermal baths from central Rome. The name refers to the pale appearance of the sulphurous water, long associated with this area east of the capital. Today the complex combines thermal treatments, wellness services and seasonal outdoor pools.
For travellers who want a structured spa close to Rome, this is a practical alternative to going all the way to Viterbo. The indoor thermal spa circuit, “Le Vie del Benessere”, costs €45 Monday to Friday and €50 at weekends, and is closed on Tuesdays. The outdoor pool park, open in summer only, is a much cheaper way to spend the day, with entry from around €16 on weekdays and about €21 at weekends. Opening times and pool availability change with the season, so check the official website before you go.
Terme Sabine di Cretone
Seasonal pools in the Sabina countryside
Address: Via dell’Acqua Solfurea, Palombara Sabina Entry fee: €10-13
Cretone offers a different atmosphere: a green, open-air thermal complex in the Sabina countryside, roughly 45 minutes from Rome by car. Its pools are fed by sulphurous mineral water and the setting makes it especially appealing when you want to combine bathing with a relaxed summer day outside the city.
The pools operate seasonally, so this is not the place to choose without checking ahead. In summer it can be one of the easiest family-friendly thermal escapes from Rome; outside the main season, verify opening dates directly before travelling.
Terme di Stigliano
Historic spa surrounded by the Tuscia countryside
Address: Località Bagni di Stigliano 2, Canale Monterano Entry fee: from €25
About 75 to 90 minutes northwest of Rome, Terme di Stigliano is a good option for travellers who prefer a quiet spa day in the countryside. The historic thermal resort combines a hotel, wellness facilities and a thermal park surrounded by the landscape of the Tolfa Mountains.
The resort now offers different ways to visit, including access to the thermal park and the Helius Day Spa, so it is better to choose the experience directly from the current offers rather than rely on a single admission price. For a shorter late-day visit, the Stigliano AperiSunset combines access to the thermal park with an aperitivo around sunset. Check the official offers page for current availability and conditions
Bagni della Ficoncella
Low-cost public thermal pools overlooking the coast
Address: Strada della Ficoncella, Civitavecchia Entry fee: €6-10
Ficoncella is one of the best-value hot-spring experiences within easy reach of Rome. On the hills above Civitavecchia, a series of small pools lets bathers move between different water temperatures in an informal setting with views towards the coast. The site has deep local roots: the surrounding area was already known for thermal waters in Etruscan and Roman times.
The baths reopened on 5 September 2026 after temporary works and updated safety measures. From 14 September 2026 the official winter timetable is daily from 8am to 8pm. For non-residents, the current price is €6 for a morning or afternoon session and €10 for the full day. A car is the simplest way to reach the site; from Rome, take the A12 towards Civitavecchia and exit at Civitavecchia Nord.
Terme dei Papi
Viterbo’s landmark monumental thermal pool
Address: Largo Socrate Sensi 1, Viterbo Entry fee: from €18
For a classic thermal day trip, Terme dei Papi remains one of the strongest choices around Rome. Its huge outdoor Monumental Pool covers more than 2,000 square metres and is supplied by the hyperthermal Bullicame spring. The scale of the pool makes the experience feel very different from a hotel spa, especially in cooler weather when steam rises above the water.
Current day entry to the outdoor pool is €18 for adults, with standard daytime access from 9am to 7pm. The complex also offers the natural cave and additional thermal and wellness treatments; a basic ‘Terme Romane’ package combining the pool and natural cave is currently €25. Viterbo is around 90 minutes from Rome by car, making this best suited to a full-day excursion.
Piscine Carletti
Free, rustic outdoor hot pools
Address: Strada Terme, around 2.5 km from central Viterbo Free access
If your idea of a hot spring is simple, outdoor and unpolished, Piscine Carletti is the most straightforward option in the Viterbo area. The pools are fed by hot thermal water and can be used year-round; bathing on a cold day, with steam rising from the water, is part of the appeal.
Access is free and there is parking nearby, but this is not a managed spa: expect very limited facilities and bring everything you need, including a towel, water and footwear suitable for wet ground. Conditions can change after maintenance or local restrictions, so check local notices before making the journey.
Bullicame is less about spa luxury and more about the history and geology of Viterbo. The famous spring emerges at roughly 58°C and has been associated with the city for centuries; Dante even referred to the Bullicame in the Divine Comedy. Channels carry the water away from the spring, and the surrounding landscape makes this one of the most distinctive thermal sites in Tuscia.
The spring area is worth seeing even if your main goal is cultural rather than a long soak. Treat it as a natural site rather than a serviced thermal establishment: facilities are minimal, water near the source is extremely hot, and local access rules should always be respected.
Il Bagnaccio
Natural thermal park on the Via Francigena
Address: Strada del Garinei, Viterbo Entry fee: from €8
Bagnaccio sits north of Viterbo along the Via Francigena and strikes a useful balance between wild hot springs and an organised spa. The thermal park has outdoor pools in a natural setting but also basic visitor services, making it more comfortable than completely unmanaged bathing areas.
As of autumn 2026 it is open daily, with reduced hours in winter (typically into the early evening, with a later opening on Tuesday and a later closing at weekends). Standard entry is €8 on weekdays and €10 at weekends and on public holidays. Check the current timetable and prices on the official website before travelling.
Beyond Lazio, Italy offers numerous natural baths to discover. From Sirmione on Lake Garda, ideal for a couple’s weekend, to the Bormio thermal baths, perfect for winter holidays, Salsomaggiore Terme in Tuscany, or the Recoaro Thermal Baths, not far from Venice.
Which thermal bath should you choose?
Closest classic thermal experience: Terme di Roma – Acque Albule.
Luxury spa day: QC Terme Roma.
Best historic thermal pool: Terme dei Papi.
Best free rustic soak: Piscine Carletti.
Best low-cost organised option: Ficoncella.
Best natural setting with basic services: Bagnaccio.
Best for history and landscape: Bullicame.
Best countryside wellness retreat: Terme di Stigliano.
Practical tips before you go
Check opening times on the official website on the day before travelling. Seasonal hours and maintenance closures are common.
Bring flip-flops or water shoes, a towel and drinking water, especially at free or semi-wild sites.
Do not expect changing rooms, lockers or showers at unmanaged natural pools.
Hot thermal water can be tiring. Take breaks, stay hydrated and follow on-site safety instructions.
A car gives you far more flexibility for Viterbo, Stigliano and Ficoncella. Tivoli Terme is easier to combine with public transport.
Winter can be one of the most atmospheric times to visit outdoor hot pools, but check weather and access conditions first.
Frequently asked questions
Are there free hot springs near Rome?
Yes. Piscine Carletti and the Bullicame area near Viterbo are the best-known free options in this guide. They are rustic natural sites rather than full-service spas.
What are the closest thermal baths to Rome?
Terme di Roma – Acque Albule in Tivoli Terme and QC Terme Roma near Fiumicino are among the easiest options for a half-day or day trip from the city.
Can you visit hot springs near Rome in winter?
Yes. The Viterbo area is the best option in the cold months. Terme dei Papi is open year-round, and the free pools nearby (Bullicame, Piscine Carletti, Bagnaccio) stay hot enough to enjoy even in winter.
Do I need a car?
Not always, but it helps. The more natural sites around Viterbo and Civitavecchia are substantially easier to reach by car, while some commercial thermal complexes can be approached by train plus local transport or taxi.
Are natural thermal baths safe for everyone?
Very hot water is not suitable for everyone. Follow posted rules and, if you have cardiovascular conditions, are pregnant or have another health concern, ask a healthcare professional before prolonged bathing.
The bustling rione of history, diversity, and grit
One of Rome’s famous ‘Seven Hills’, Esquilino is an ancient neighborhood with a vibrant and multicultural present. In Esquilino you will find a little bit of everything: plenty of history, as it began as the home to the semi-mythical Ancient Roman King, Servius Tullius, and is dotted with ancient walls and ruins; religious significance, from the magnificent Papal Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore; 19th century Italian architecture, in the famous colonnade of Piazza Vittorio Emanuele; and a food scene where Roman trattorias sit next to some of the city’s best international kitchens.
Esquilino is home to many of Rome’s immigrant communities, and you feel it everywhere, from the Nuovo Mercato Esquilino, where Roman cheeses share the stalls with Indian spices and Asian vegetables, to the Chinese and Indian restaurants around Piazza Vittorio.
The neighborhood also comes alive after dark: natural wine bars and late-night cocktail spots along Via Machiavelli, jazz evenings at the Gatsby Café, DJ sets and open-air cinema in the gardens of Piazza Vittorio. Just outside the tourist center and a short walk from Termini, Esquilino feels grounded and real, which is exactly why Time Out named it one of the ten coolest neighborhoods in the world in 2026.
It’s also a practical base for a stay in Rome: Termini, with both metro lines and the train to Fiumicino Airport, is on the doorstep, Monti is a few minutes’ walk away and the Colosseum about 20 minutes on foot. As around any major train station, the streets closest to Terminicall for a little extra attention late at night, while the rest of the neighborhood is lively and residential.
It’s also where Pope Francis chose to be buried. Since April 2025, his simple tomb in Santa Maria Maggiore, a slab of Ligurian marble inscribed only with “Franciscus”, has made the basilica a fixed stop on almost every Rome itinerary.
Read on for the best things to see in Esquilino, then head to our guides on where to eat and where to drink in the neighborhood.
Love having Esquilino mapped out? Get the full Rome Google Maps Guide: every neighbourhood, sight and local gem in one map on your phone
Built in the aftermath of Italy’s reunification, this piazza is surrounded by Italian palaces and 19th-century style porticoes. Walking under these grand rows of columns, which outline one of the largest piazzas in Rome, you will encircle the garden in its center. The garden itself is dotted with ruins; the remains of an Ancient Roman fountain, the Trophies of Marius. On a sunny day, the park comes alive, a showcase of a vibrant and still-local neighborhood surrounded by history. The piazza is also home to a legend: the Magic Gate. Once the door to the grand Villa Palombara, it is said that an alchemist found a secret herb, capable of creating gold, right before disappearing through the door forever. He left behind a series of indecipherable symbols, carved onto the gate; other than that, all that remained were a few flecks of gold and mystery.
Mercato Esquilino
Via Principe Amedeo, 184 Open 5am – 3pm every day except Sunday
Housed in a sprawling indoor warehouse near Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, the Mercato Esquilino is a market that bustles with energy as locals and vendors shout, haggle, and weave through tightly packed stalls. The market is a colorful amalgamation of fresh produce, exotic spices, international ingredients, and imported goods from across Asia, Africa, and the Middle East, reflecting the diverse communities that call the area home. It’s a chaotic but fascinating glimpse into the daily life and global flavor of Esquilino. Bring a good appetite, and cash.
St. Mary Major
Piazza di S. Maria Maggiore, 42
One of Rome’s four Papal Basilicas, this magnificent church is the burial place for eight Popes, including the late Pope Francis. It is rich with decoration: lined with columns, adorned with gold and embellished with a mixture of Paleochristian and Medieval mosaics. The Basilica houses many important relics, including the Salus Populi Romani, a painting of Mary said to have been made by Saint Luke, so sacred and important that upon its arrival in Rome it was paraded through the streets for three days. For those who care more for art than religion, in the church you will find the grave of Bernini, one of Rome’s greatest sculptors, and Arnolfo di Cambio’s nativity scene – the first nativity scene ever in art history. The extravagant basilica, more than 1600 years old, is undeniably impressive.
San Vito Church
Via Carlo Alberto, 47
This small church curiously features two distinct facades: one made of marble and the other of ancient brick. The brick facade is part of the original Servian Walls, Rome’s ancient defensive fortifications, and is connected to the Arch of Gallieno, a remnant of the Porta Esquilina, the historic Esquiline Gate. The marble facade dates back to the late 15th century, when Pope Sixtus IV established the church. Offering a fascinating window into Rome’s layered history, this church also has a darker side; its “Stone of Iniquity” was used as a torture device against Christian martyrs.
Palazzo Merulana
Via Merulana, 121 Open Wed- Fri 12pm-8pm | Sat-Sun 10am-8pm
A grand building in Umbertine style, Palazzo Merulana is a cultural hub, art gallery, bookstore and cafè. Housing mostly Roman and Italian artworks, the chic space explores 20th century art. The sculpture-filled lobby and its café is perfect for people-watching or studying, and after wandering through its dedicated exhibition floors, head up to the terrace to enjoy skyline views of the Eternal City.
Teatro Brancaccio
Via Merulana, 244
Teatro Brancaccio stands as one of Rome’s principal and most recognizable theatres, a cornerstone of the city’s performing arts scene. In line with the vibrance of the neighborhood, it has played a central role in Roman cultural life since its opening in 1916. It hosts everything from musicals and comedy to dance and big-name concerts.
Basilica di Santa Croce in Gerusalemme
Piazza di S. Croce in Gerusalemme
Santa Croce in Gerusalemme is an extraordinarily old church, originally built in 324 AD as a chapel to house sacred relics. Before that, the site had many lives: an Imperial villa, an amphitheatre, and the residence of Helen, mother of Constantine. The Chapel of Relics still holds a copy of the Holy Shroud, pieces of the crucifixion cross, and thorns from Christ’s crown. The church reflects the evolution of Roman art and architecture, from its Baroque design to an Ancient Roman statue on the altarpiece, reworked to depict Helen.
Santa Prassede
Via di Santa Prassede, 9A
A tiny church, tucked away around the corner of its imposing neighbour, Santa Maria Maggiore, Santa Prassede is a hidden gem. Considered the masterpiece of Early Medieval Rome, its Byzantine mosaics are some of the oldest in the city, and were executed by artists all the way from Constantinople. It tells the story of the relationship between the two Roman Empires, and the diplomatic and religious ties which formed the early Church.
Where to Eat in Esquilino
Esquilino is a good neighborhood for eating well without spending much. Century-old trattorias like Trattoria Vecchia Roma and Trattoria Monti sit a few streets from Chinese hot pot, Indian kitchens, historic bakeries and Gelateria Fassi, open since 1880.
From natural wine bars on Via Machiavelli and historic enoteche to a garden café inside Piazza Vittorio and a rooftop overlooking Santa Maria Maggiore, Esquilino has a bar for every hour of the day.
On Saturday 10 and Sunday 11 October, the multidisciplinary festival of contemporary arts returns to Rome
This year, the fifth edition of Romadiffusa has chosen the Esquilinoneighbourhood as its stage. After last year’s success, with more than 80,000 visitors, over 100 iconic locations and more than 200 artists, musicians and creatives taking part, the travelling festival is heading to the city’s most multicultural district for 2026.
Expect roving performances, concerts and live music in the square, exhibitions spread across the area, open studios by artists and artisans, private homes opening their doors, readings and stand-up comedy in bars and osterie, workshops, tours and much more.
The dates are 10 and 11 October, when the neighbourhood becomes a diffused cultural platform connecting artists, residents, communities, cultural institutions and local businesses, with a programme that winds through squares, markets, gardens, museums, historic buildings, bars and shops.
Piazza Vittorio will be the heart of the event, and from here a packed programme will spread out across the area: from the work of eight artists at the Nuovo Mercato Esquilino (among them Fiamma Montezemolo, Wu Ming 2 and Lorenzo Teodonio, Lulù Nuti and Andreco) to readings of Chinese diaspora literature at Hang Zhou (Sonia‘s well-known Chinese restaurant), all the way to jazz concerts under the porticoes of Gatsby and video art at Machiavelli. The Accademia Costume & Moda will host several events: a video screening by Rä di Martino, a live show of the podcast Dicono di te by Malcom Pagani (Chora Media) and, finally, a site-specific installation by Numero Cromatico on the building’s façade.
The concept behind the 2026 edition
The theme of the fifth edition is “ROMA CITTÀ ETERNA ODIERNA” (Rome, city of eternity today). The title reveals the aim of placing, alongside the Rome known worldwide for its historical and artistic heritage, a contemporary Rome that is alive and changing. A city that is not just an “open-air museum”, but a dynamic, participatory place that produces culture today.
“All too often, the way the city is portrayed, even when it’s done well, relies on the ‘open-air museum’ idea and on a narrative that ignores its contemporary, vibrant side. At the same time, Rome struggles to work as a system: the public sector rarely talks to the private sector, artists and creatives find it hard to secure funding for larger-scale projects, and there are countless organisations working on similar projects without knowing about each other, with no container where they can come together and emerge. Romadiffusa wants to be that container.”
Sara D’Agati, Artistic Director of the festival
The all-female team behind Romadiffusa, a project founded in 2021 by Sara D’Agati and Maddalena Salerno, is mapping the entire city, neighbourhood by neighbourhood, in search of its most authentic and interesting places: artisan workshops, bookshops, artists’ studios, libraries, museums and historic buildings, but also hidden courtyards, traditional bars and osterie, grocery shops, bakeries, creative spaces and small galleries. Original places that, sadly, are often at risk of disappearing.
At the same time, for each edition, artists, musicians, performers and designers are brought in through a research process and a “call for content” to create site-specific work.
The Romadiffusa Esquilino programme
Piazza Vittorio becomes one of the festival’s main hubs, with a programme that blends music, talks, sport and performance.
Art takes over the streets with a series of exhibitions and installations across the neighbourhood: works by Cecilia Sammarco appear at Torrefazione Ciamei and Bar allo Statuto; Caterina Silva curates an exhibition of emerging women artists from different cultures, spread between a bakery, a minimarket and local shops; and Andrew Iacobucci creates a site-specific installation at Bar D’Amore.
Many artists are opening their private studios to the public, including Fiamma Montezemolo and Tarek Elhaik, Mohamed Keita, Serafino Maiorano and Elena Bellantoni, while the neighbourhood’s galleries host special events at Ultravioletto and La Nube di Oort, with the finissage of Mexican artist Hiram Constantino.
The area’s cultural institutions are also taking part with special openings and events: Palazzo Merulana hosts a performance by Chinese artist Yuan Gong, curated by Liliana Liao; Acquario Romano and the Giardino di Confucio join the programme with performances, dedicated activities and talks (including one featuring the Eterobasiche and the Bambole di pezza, organised by Fanpage in collaboration with Romadiffusa). Fondazione Treccani Cultura brings a lecture performance by Thony and Sofia Assante to the square, at Horti Magici.
Tours
Rounding off the programme are tours and workshops to explore Esquilino from unexpected angles: from architecture tours with Panteon Magazine and Casa dell’Architettura to places of worship with Superdiversa, a neighbourhood tour with Unexpected Itineraries, an esoteric tour, and workshops in mosaic, woodcarving and tailoring.
All events are free, except for some workshops, tours and talks with limited places, which can be booked here.
When visiting Rome, you’ll probably want to bring home something other than the miniature Colosseums sold on every corner. These shops sell souvenirs worth the suitcase space, from Murano glass and original photographs to Italian coffee, herbal cosmetics and handmade Christmas ornaments.
Located between Termini and Repubblica metro stops, this cozy little boutique offers a wide variety of accessories and home decor made out of the authentic Venetian Murano Glass. The Guetta family brought the iconic Murano trademark and opened their store here in Rome over two decades ago. Here, you can find a unique jewelry piece or a decorative artwork of your liking to bring back as a memorable gift. Bold and vibrant colors of Murano glass are one of the signature Italian cultural attributes.
Via Buonarroti, 20 (Vittorio Emanuele); Via Merulana, 10 (Santa Maria Maggiore) astrologoargenterie.it
Equal parts classic jeweler and gift shop, Astrologo offers a little bit of everything under one roof. Inside, fine gold chains and personalized silver pieces sit alongside religious items, hand-painted ceramics, and gifts for life’s milestones. Whether you’re designing a custom charm bracelet or choosing a keepsake box, it’s the kind of place where you drop in to browse and leave with a piece of Rome that feels truly personal.
Just around the corner from the Pantheon, this small family-run studio is where photographer and designer Carlo De Gori sells his own pictures of Rome. His style is easy to spot: classic statues and monuments brought to life with bursts of color, paint splashes and graphic overlays. Every photo is an original, some in numbered editions, and comes in all sizes and formats, from small prints to large pieces on canvas, plexiglass or metal, which can be customized on request. Too big for your suitcase? Trevimage also ships internationally.
Castroni
Via Cola di Rienzo, 196/198 (Prati); Via Frattina, 79 (Centro Storico); Via Flaminia, 28/30/32 (Flaminio); and more castroni.it
When visiting Italy, the food is definitely something you’re going to remember. At Castroni you’ll find some of the best Italian products to take home with you. Their lovely selection of quality and well-packaged products include coffee, tea, sweets, jams, sauces, olive oils, wines and much more. This is the perfect place for foodies to find treats to keep Italy alive after the holiday ends.
In Rome’s lively Trastevere neighborhood, Elvis Lives is a quirky concept store that blends rock ‘n’ roll with Roman-inspired design. Far from a typical tourist shop, it stocks original graphic tees, bold socks, pins, tote bags and pop-culture novelties. A good stop for music fans and design lovers looking for a Roman souvenir that isn’t the usual one.
Rooted in Italian heritage, Antica Erboristeria Romana combines traditional herbalism with pharmaceutical expertise. Inspired by Italian nature and wellness, they create natural beauty and personal care products using specialized botanical ingredients. It’s a perfect stop for travelers looking to take home Italian herbal cosmetics, natural skincare, and botanical wellness gifts.
Located a few steps from the Pantheon, Spazio Decore is a boutique that doubles as a creative showcase for local artists and emerging talents. The collection highlights original fine art prints, crafts, clothing, and design objects that draw inspiration from Rome’s neighborhood culture and street art scene, making it a must-visit destination for travelers looking to take home a genuine piece of the Eternal City.
If you decorate a Christmas tree every year, this is the souvenir shop for you. A few minutes’ walk from Piazza Navona, on Via della Scrofa, “Sempre Natale” (meaning “Always Christmas”) is the only shop in Italy entirely dedicated to glass Christmas ornaments, and it’s open all year round. Here you’ll find over a thousand vintage-style decorations, mouth-blown and hand-painted by master artisans in Italy, Poland, Germany and the Czech Republic. The shop also makes its own Rome-inspired pieces.
Less than 200 meters from the Pantheon, this café is known for serving some of the best coffee in Rome, so it’s worth stopping in for one of its signatures, like the Gran Caffè. Afterward, browse the coffee-themed souvenirs, from bags of Sant’Eustachio beans to moka pots, cups, tote bags and sweets. If you run out of time or want to keep the ritual going at home, they also ship worldwide through their online shop.
Booktique
Via della Stelletta, 17 (Navona/Pantheon) booktique.info
Tucked away close to the Pantheon, Booktique is a multi-brand concept store that invites visitors to slow down and enjoy a thoughtful dose of retail therapy. It features an inspired interior showcasing a curated selection of books alongside fashion, art, and design objects. Beyond reading material, Booktique is a destination for original souvenirs and creative gifts to take home, from handcrafted ceramics and artistic posters to custom postcards and magnets.
Just steps from Largo Argentina, you’ll find Emporio Centrale, a charming shop with classic Italian designs. The store offers a collection of everyday objects ranging from kitchenware and cosmetics to timeless stationery sourced exclusively from historic Italian manufacturers. Whether you are looking for houseware or elegant city-inspired keepsakes, it is the perfect spot to pick up a meaningful souvenir with authentic Italian craftsmanship to bring home with you.
Porta Portese Flea Market
Piazza di Porta Portese (Trastevere/Marconi)
If you like flea markets, this is where you can find something unique and well-priced. This Sunday flea market is huge, the biggest in Rome. Here you’ll find anything from leather jackets and Italian silk ties, to books and antiques. Visit in the early morning and spend a few hours here experiencing another side of Roman life while searching for something unique to take home with you.
An agreement has been signed renewing the partnership between the National Roman Museum and Villa Farnesina, providing for reciprocal discounts on admission tickets, as follows: This forms part of a two-year partnership agreement between the National Roman Museum and the National Academy of the Lincei.
Where to Drink in Esquilino, from Piazza Vittorio to Via Machiavelli
Esquilino’s bar scene has grown a lot in recent years. Around Piazza Vittorio and along Via Machiavelli you’ll find natural wine bars with a local crowd, historic enoteche, cocktail bars in unexpected spaces and a rooftop with views over the city.
Most of them are a short walk from Termini, and prices are generally friendlier than in the historic center. These are the places worth knowing, whether you’re after a morning coffee, an aperitivo or a late-night Negroni.
Callimaco
Via Machiavelli, 21 Open Mon-Thu 8.30am-midnight; Fri 8.30am-2am; Sat 6pm-2am; Sun 6pm-midnight instagram.com/callimaco_
Callimaco, on Via Niccolò Machiavelli in Esquilino, is a laid-back neighborhood wine bar with a very local crowd, perfect for an unfussy glass of wine. The selection leans toward small, artisanal labels (often natural), paired with simple bites, making it ideal for an easy aperitivo or a night that stretches on. A straightforward, well-curated spot to keep on your list when you want to drink well in the area.
A fourth-generation wine bar, Angelini offers the classic, timeless enoteca experience in Italy. Wine is stacked to the ceiling. Tables sized only to fit a couple of glasses and some taralli. A relaxed atmosphere, made for the 5pm aperitivo. Inexorably nostalgic and affordable, it’s easy to see why it’s an obligatory stop on the way to the opera house nearby. The staff are incredibly friendly, and will doubtless help you find the perfect glass.
Horti Magici
Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, inside the Giardini Nicola Calipari Open daily 9.30am-midnight instagram.com/hortimagici/
Tucked inside the gardens of Piazza Vittorio, Horti Magici is a café and bistro set in a small Liberty-style casina that was once the gardener’s shed. It’s run by the team behind The Gatsby Café across the street and stays open from breakfast to after dinner: coffee and pastries in the morning, proper dishes at lunch, then aperitivo with natural wines and cocktails at tables among the trees. In the evening, the program of DJ sets and events keeps the park lively.
Machiavelli 64
Via Machiavelli, 64 Open Mon-Sat 12pm-3pm, 6pm-midnight; closed Sundays machiavelli64.com/
Machiavelli 64 is a bit of everything. A bubbly, open space, the wine bar is seriously dedicated to its craft, and even offers full-on private tastings and underground “meetings in the cellar” for those who want an introduction to wine, culture, and Italy. No bar is complete without its snacks, and Machiavelli 64 changes its menu every month, to capture the beauty of seasonal ingredients and ever-expanding creativity. Everything here is a conversation; the gathering of friends, the relationship between wine and food, and even the kitchen is open, so everyone can feel at home.
Masa Rooftop
Via di S. Maria Maggiore, 143 Open daily 12pm-11pm masarooftop.it/
Perched on the rooftop of Hotel Major, Masa Rooftop reinvents the classic Italian aperitivo with a refined Middle Eastern twist. Guided by the spirit of conviviality, Masa invites guests on a culinary journey through an elegant selection of small plates crafted by the chef. Whether you’re planning a romantic evening with panoramic views of Rome or looking to enjoy a night of sophisticated Oriental-inspired finger food and cocktails, Masa is the perfect destination for a truly memorable experience.
Materia Café
Via Andrea Provana, 7 Open Tue-Fri 8am-midnight; Sat-Sun 9am-midnight; Mon 8am-4pm materiacafe.com/
Materia Café, located near Basilica di Santa Croce, has a laid-back bohemian atmosphere. This café has a menu of healthy food options, such as avocado toast, a rice-based protein bowl, and many types of filling salads. Materia Café also offers a selection of teas and fresh-squeezed juices.
Quartino Enoteca
P.za Vittorio Emanuele II, 103 Open Mon-Sat 10am-1am; closed Sundays quartino.eu
Just across from Piazza Vittorio, Quartino Enoteca is an elegant and welcoming wine bar. Shelves stacked high with bottles give the impression of a curated archive, walls lined with around 2,000 Italian and French wine labels. Alongside its impressive wine selection, Quartino offers a thoughtfully crafted menu of Italian classics, with a few international flavors and fusion dishes. With so many bottles and dishes to choose from, you should definitely ask their knowledgeable staff, who are always ready to help you find the perfect pairing.
A bohemian bar in an industrial loft, Salotto Caronte is all dim lights and urban feel. Dripping in style, it’s the perfect choice for a glamorous steak night or a late-night snack with your cocktails. The menu feels modern, the beverages like they come with a little drama. Prepare to take your time, drinking in the artsy atmosphere and a flawlessly crafted Negroni.
The Gatsby Café
P.za Vittorio Emanuele II, 106 Open Sun-Wed 8am-midnight; Thu 8am-1am; Fri-Sat 8am-2am gatsbycafe.it/
The Gatsby Café is an intimate cafe and bar themed after F. Scott Fitzgerald’s titular novel, with decadent and playful 1920s style wallpaper and decor. This is a beautiful place to stop for a coffee or cocktail, especially in the evening when it turns into a jazz bar. The Gatsby Café is located across the street from Piazza Vittorio.
From Roman Trattorias to Chinese Hot Pot: The Best Places to Eat in Esquilino
Esquilino is one of the most multicultural neighborhoods in Rome, and its food scene shows it. Around Piazza Vittorio, century-old trattorias and historic pastry shops sit a few doors away from Chinese hot pot, Indian kitchens and new-wave bakeries and pizzerias. Prices are generally lower than in the historic center, and it’s all a short walk from Termini. These are the places worth knowing, from Roman classics to the neighborhood’s newer openings.
Ardecore
Via Buonarroti, 32 Open Tue-Sun 6pm-11pm; closed Mondays ardecore.it
Ardecore brings Irpinia, the inland area of Campania around Avellino, to Esquilino. Pizza chef Alessandro Zirpolo makes contemporary Neapolitan-style pizza, and the menu leans into Campanian classics: montanarine and other fried starters, pasta e patate, genovese. The wine list focuses on Irpinian producers. It’s much bigger inside than it looks from the street, but book ahead anyway. Ardecore was named among the Pizzerie Eccellenti in 50 Top Pizza Italia 2025.
Bottega Trattoria De Santis
Via di S. Croce in Gerusalemme, 15/A Open Mon-Sat 12pm-3pm, 7.30pm-11pm; Sun 12.30pm-3pm bottegatrattoriadesantis.it
A super local restaurant that combines thoughtful food with affordable prices. De Santis has a small menu, and you get the sense it’s been carefully selected to include the Roman classics, but save room for special ingredients and ideas to surprise seasoned locals. They’re not afraid to use the most rustic local ingredients, like Roman tripe and veal tongue, but neither do they shy away from the refined, in their tuna tartare, black truffles, and cornbread-coated anchovies.
Casadante is a spacious, open-concept restaurant. It has a trendy, intellectual vibe, and delicious food to match. The cuisine is primarily classic Roman, but the menu also features a selection of DOP hamburgers, plus an alluring wine list. Casadante is located off Piazza Dante.
At De Zhuang Restaurant, an exciting variety of menus awaits, each dedicated to the unique experience of Chinese Fondue or hot pot style dining. Imagine each table adorned with a central, steaming metal cauldron, inviting guests to partake in the interactive joy of cooking their own meals, picking and mixing different tastes.
Forno Conti is a bakery (and more) in the heart of Esquilino. With its minimalist, Nordic-inspired vibe, it offers a mix of international, Italian, Scandinavian, and French recipes. From Venetian buns and cardamom rolls to croissants, pain au chocolat, and a wide variety of breads, there’s something for everyone. Lunchtime features tasty savory pastries, quiches, and pizza, all paired with specialty coffee from Aliena, the renowned roastery born in Montesacro.
Not to be confused with the Roscioli bakery near Campo de’ Fiori, this forno a few steps from Piazza Vittorio was opened by Pietro Roscioli in 1986 and is now run by the third generation of the family. Come for the bread, the pizza bianca and the small pizzette rosse the neighborhood is fond of, or for pizza alla pala and the hot dishes at lunch. It still keeps up the old tradition of a second daily bake, so there’s fresh bread well into the afternoon.
Gelateria Fassi
Via Principe Eugenio, 65 Open Mon-Thu 12pm-10pm; Fri-Sat 12pm-midnight; Sun 10am-10pm gelateriafassi.com
What is a neighborhood without a go-to gelato place? This gelateria, open since 1880, has been a staple for many either visiting or living in Rome. The gelato is well worth the trip to Esquilino. Unlike many gelaterias, Palazzo del Freddo has plenty of seating for everyone.
There is no better place for this unique Chinese dining restaurant than in Esquilino itself, as the neighborhood is often nicknamed the “Chinatown” of Rome with its abundance of diversity. Look no further than Hang Zhou da Sonia to get your Asian food fix, as their extensive menu is enough to satisfy any palate. Sample their dumplings to start, followed by their raved-about Sichuan-style spicy chicken.
With Esquilino being one of the most diverse neighborhoods in Rome, it comes as no surprise that one of the best Indian restaurants in the city, Krishna13, is situated right next to Piazza Vittorio Emanuele. This is the perfect spot if you are craving a break from pasta, pizza, and other carbs: indulge in their wide selection of Northern and Southern Indian meat, fish, and vegetarian dishes in a warm and inviting environment.
La Pecora Pazza
Via Statilia, 35 Open Mon-Fri 12pm-3pm, 6.30pm-11.30pm; Sat-Sun 6.30pm-11.30pm
A family-run trattoria, La Pecora Pazza (The Crazy Sheep) feels like eating at your parents’ house. If your parents were Calabrian, of course. While there’s barely a menu in Rome that doesn’t have Carbonara and Amatriciana, the more southern region’s influence comes through in the n’duja (spicy Calabrian sausage), spicy gnocchi, and provola cheese. Fair prices, and everything’s homemade, which explains why the eggplant meatballs taste so incredible.
Marco G’s Osteria
Via Statilia, 12 Open Thu-Sun 12pm-11pm; Mon and Wed 5.30pm-11pm; closed Tuesdays marcog.it
Marco G’s is the restaurant you think doesn’t exist in Rome anymore. Small and welcoming, packed with locals until the late hours of the evening, dishing out Roman pasta and pinse (a thick, almost focaccia-like, Roman-style pizza) with warmth and authenticity. It’s the kind of place where you hesitate, just a little, before telling others about it; but then you think, it would be selfish not to share.
Mercato Centrale
Roma Termini, Via Giovanni Giolitti, 36 Open Sun-Thu 7.30am-11pm; Fri-Sat 7.30am-midnight mercatocentrale.it
Present in Florence, Rome, Turin, and Milan, Mercato Centrale is an expansive collection of gourmet restaurants and cafés, a foodie’s paradise. They call themselves a workshop, and those making the food the artisans. Whatever you’re after (Italian truffles, Argentinian empanadas, Chinese dumplings, Neapolitan sfogliatelle pastries, trapizzino, a smashburger, or simply a gelato and a glass of wine), you’ll find it at Mercato Centrale.
Pasticceria Regoli
Via dello Statuto, 60 Open Wed-Mon 7am-7pm
Even if you do not have a sweet tooth, stopping by Regoli for a pastry is an absolute must. This pasticceria is famous for its maritozzi, a Roman pastry filled to the brim with whipped cream. Other delights include a custard-filled shortbread dotted with fresh strawberries, or the fagottine, “little bundles” of ricotta.
Trattoria da Danilo
Via Petrarca, 13 Open Tue-Sat 1pm-3pm, 8pm-11pm; Mon 8pm-11pm; closed Sundays
A few streets from Piazza Vittorio, this small family trattoria is run by Danilo Valente, with his mother Lina behind the stove. The menu sticks to the Roman classics, and two dishes bring most people here: the carbonara, often named among the best in the city, and the cacio e pepe, tossed at the table inside a wheel of pecorino. Book ahead, especially for dinner, and be on time: service starts right on the hour.
Trattoria Monti
Via di San Vito, 13 Open Tue-Sat 12.45pm-2.30pm, 8pm-10.30pm; Sun 12.45pm-2.30pm; closed Mondays
Come indulge in this sophisticated Italian restaurant owned by two Italian brothers. Highly recommended by locals, the eatery’s best-loved recipes are its egg-yolk tortello and truffle dishes. The traditional and authentic feel and taste of the restaurant will have you come back repeatedly. Make sure to book a table in advance as seating is limited.
A great place to get a taste of many rustic Roman specialties, such as trippa, coratella, and pajata to name a few. Perfect for family style dining to try multiple different dishes. The seafood pasta is quite a popular choice on the menu. And despite their offal offerings mentioned above, there are surprisingly great options for veggie eaters as well.
This isn’t just a restaurant: it’s an establishment. Started in 1916, Trattoria Vecchia Roma serves locals with very classic Roman dishes. The familiar carbonara, cacio e pepe and amatriciana are all features, but so are those less familiar to tourists: coda alla vaccinara (oxtail), rigatoni con la pajata (pasta with small intestines). Their porchetta (slow-roasted pork) should not be missed.
Authentic silver, custom engravings, and gifts in the Esquilino neighborhood
Established in 1997, Argenteria Astrologo is a family-run boutique offering fine gold and sterling silver jewelry, silver icons, and customized Italian gifts. Located in Rome’s Esquilino neighborhood, the business operates two locations: its original historic shop on Via Buonarroti 20 and a second shop near the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore on Via Merulana 10. Combining traditional craftsmanship with modern design, it serves as a go-to destination for authentic Roman keepsakes.
Near the entrance, you’ll find modern jewelry for men and women. Further inside, display cases and stacks of wooden drawers hold gold and silver rings, charms, necklaces and earrings. Everything is sourced directly from Italian manufacturing centers and reflects the country’s tradition of metalwork.
A major highlight for shoppers is Astrologo’s express on-the-spot engraving service, which allows custom dates, initials, or messages to be etched onto rings, watch backs, and pendants in just a few minutes. For non-EU tourists, the boutique also offers tax-free shopping on purchases over €70, allowing visitors to easily claim their VAT refund at the airport.
Art, Roman Monuments and Silver Gifts Fit for Embassies
Besides wearable accessories, Argenteria Astrologo carries a huge inventory of fine silver and gold artwork. Its religious collection includes detailed plaques and wearable pendants depicting the Virgin Mary, the Pope, traditional crosses, and more available in gold, sterling silver, or mixed metals to suit everyone’s preference.
The store also carries framed silver reliefs of Rome’s iconic monuments, such as the Colosseum and Piazza San Pietro. These pieces are purchased by institutions such as the Italian Ministry of the Interior and several foreign embassies.
For those who love unique home decor and small treasures, the store’s shelves are filled with hand-painted ceramics, decorative tableware, photo frames, and trinkets galore. The shop also specializes in milestone gifts and custom favors for graduations, First Communions and weddings.
Argenteria Astrologo is located at Via Buonarroti and is open Monday through Saturday from 9:30 AM to 6:30 PM (closed Sundays). Whether you’re looking for a custom-engraved charm or an authentic piece of Italian silver, it offers a quality alternative to standard souvenir shops.
Connexion
